It’s no secret that Germans love a party and beginning now until Ash Wednesday, much of Europe is in full party mode. This time of year we celebrate “fifth season” in Bavaria, also known as “fasching” or “Fastnacht”. Literally “fast night” it refers to the night before fasting begins on Ash Wednesday and is two weeks of revelry, drinking and merry making. Parades are very popular throughout Germany but nothing beats the chaotic atmosphere and elaborate costumes of Venice where “Carnevale” is celebrated the two weekends before Ash Wednesday. We’re planning a family trip down to Vicenza to visit some friends and perhaps check out the festivities in Venice just an hour’s drive away.
Edelweiss–a winter wonderland
Winter wonderland
This weekend, Tim had the opportunity to offer a Marriage retreat for couples in the JMRC (his team at Hohenfels). We had about 15 couples and their kids join us at the Edelweiss Resort in Garmisch, Germany for a 3 day relaxation and training event. The resort is one of several Armed Forces Recreation Centers around the world designed for the use of active duty and retired military members. To read more about the resort, click on the link:
http://www.edelweisslodgeandresort.com/
Each morning, the adults met for 2 hours of couples communication training while the kids (ages 0-12) gathered in the staffed “4 Kids Only” club. Both groups had an enjoyable time being apart from each other. Come noon, it was time to find activities to keep the family occupied. We decided to take the kids sledding on Saturday afternoon near the US military run Hausberg Ski Area. Both Will and Lilly quickly tired of traditional sledding; instead, they attempted to go down the hill standing first on one sled and then riding two sleds (one for each foot). We had a great time laughing and encouraging them to try it again! Many of the German sledders bought a lift ticket to take the gondola up to the top and ride their sleds down. When we asked about doing this, we were told “Very steep. Not for kids.” Apparently, wearing a helmet on these steep trails is one of the requirements if you’re going to take the risk–and the cautionary look from the ticket takers made us think twice about taking Will and Lilly up so high without some head gear.
During the weekend we received about 7 inches of snow which was a treat because we have no snow at home. I met several families from around Bavaria who had the same idea…take the 2 hour drive to Garmisch to simply play in a winter wonderland.
Fröhliche Weihnachten!
Christmas morning was filled with the cries of “When can we open presents!” The older children stumbled out of their rooms, slowly making their way down the spiral steps while the two younger ones could hardly contain themselves. We started slowly opening the gifts with Will designated the “gift elf” distributing packages in an orderly manner. After an hour of this leisurely pace, we still had a mountain of boxes to wade through so we paused to get the Christmas turkey into the oven.
This was the year of jewelry; the girls were showered with baubles and gems and they gladly put on an assortment of items and began to look like living Christmas trees. We aren’t out of “noisy gifts from relatives” phase quite yet and Will received a remote-controlled helicopter which has proved the claim “Indestructible!” It continues to fly around, making landings in unusual places (like the lit candles on the table). We are happy the batteries eventually need to be recharged.
The meal was titled “Thanksgiving Redux” and we enjoyed turkey with stuffing, mashed potatoes, sweet potato pie and a variety of desserts. Late in the afternoon, we took a walk around the village and enjoyed seeing the Nativity scenes displayed in homes and shop windows. So we say, “silent night, holy night.”
Fire makes it better
We recently stumbled upon a delicacy of the German Christmas Markets…the fire bowl drink (feuerzangenbowle). A friend mentioned the stand on the other side of the Danube River in Regensberg so the family made its way wandering through the cobblestone streets in search of the elusive concoction. When we stumbled upon a long line of eager patrons waiting patiently for their drinks we knew we found something special. The drink comes served in a special cup that allows the sugar cube to rest on the side while the liquor is poured generously on top of the sugar and drink. Then, the magic comes when the server takes a small blowtorch and lights the drink on fire. We were duly impressed. So much so, that on subsequent trips, we made a beeline for the stand, passing up any imitations along the way. We thought this was a Regensberg specialty but are happy to report that Munich hosts a Fire Bowl Square right near the Old Town with several stands dedicated to the drink, and includes a 20 foot tower of copper with fire flaming out from the center. All we can say is “bring it on!”
German Christmas Markets
Starting just after American Thanksgiving, German villages and large cities play host to Christkindlmarkts…the traditional seasonal markets featuring handcrafted goods, fresh baked goods and live music. We were able to visit several of the top markets this year: Dresden–the oldest market in Germany; Stuttgart–the largest market in Germany; Esslingen–a medieval market featuring pirates, wenches and lots of street performers; Nuremberg–voted “the best” market; and Regensberg–a collection of 4 markets in one city. Each has their specialty but all have one draw in common: gluhwein, a hot mulled wine served in commemorative market coffee mugs. You pay a deposit for the cup allowing visitors to choose which cups they want to collect. (most cost between 2-3 euro) A spin on the gluhwein drink is “feuerzangenbowle” literally translated “fire tongs punch”. This drink is mulled wine with a sugar cube doused in alcohol and then lit on fire. Not only is it tasty on a cold winter’s night but adding the flame on top makes it irresistible.
Off with her head!
The kids pose with their favorite beefeater, Tower of London
Elaborate wall etchings by Tower of London prisoners
Prisoners of the Tower of London added their names and designs to the prison walls
Tower Green, view of Tudor buildings across the lawn
Tower Bridge
Every war museum needs a WOW factor; this definitely carried some weight
Where would you put a plane on display…the ceiling of course!
Tim ready to see what the British have to offer in the war museum
Piece of the Berlin Wall in London at the War Museum
Our walk to the Tower of London included a stroll along the river with great views of Tower Bridge, which we thought was London Bridge. Actually, London Bridge is the huge bridge for vehicle traffic a ways from Tower of London and the one you see from tower of London is named, appropriately, Tower Bridge. The afternoon’s weather held out and we made our way over to the Imperial War Museum where we saw WWII planes suspended from the ceiling, tour a very cool spy exhibit where we got to see tricks and tools of the trade. They also had a very well-produced exhibit on the Holocaust; it was so sensitive that children under the age of 13 were not permitted to attend.The photos were graphic and I appreciated the caution they took to protect little eyes.
Still not tired of walking yet, we were determined to find Platform 9 3/4 of Harry Potter fame. After some confusing directions from train personnel and the Rick Steves’ guidebook, we located the shopping cart and snapped a picture of Lauren almost traveling through the wall. Each of the kids took a turn, and I’m happy to report that all of them are muggles.
Trying to get to Hogwarts at Platform 9 3/4
A Moveable Feast 